Human skin is the largest organ of the body and is an effective physical barrier keeping it from environmental conditions. This barrier function of the skin is based on the stratum corneum, located in the uppermost skin.
About the stratum corneum
The stratum corneum consists of flattened corneocytes, surrounded by multilamellar lipid membranes which are composed of cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These skin lipids play a key role in maintaining and repairing a strengthened skin barrier that locks in moisture and protects against harmful stressors, resulting in healthy and youthful looking skin.With the passage of time, skin ages and suffers visible structural changes in the surface and a progressive degeneration of the skin tissue. The skin becomes wrinkled, irregular, and dehydrated, decreasing its firmness and elasticity.
About lipid depletion
While we spend a good bit of time talking about the fact that collagen and elastin production declines, and cell turnover slows down as we age, we don't pay so much attention to what happens to skin's hydration.As we age, the skin's lipid production also declines, and visible signs of skin ageing, such as dryness, wrinkles, rough complexion and lack of luminosity can appear. Lipid depletion compromises the efficacy of the barrier function, leading to dull and weak skin, so we need to replenish the lipids that are already found within skin, to keep it hydrated, protected and strong.
How do we fight it?
Supplementing the skin's stockpile of these lipids at once hydrates and plumps skin and protects it from chronic dry-skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis and redness.
- Ceramides are essential components of the stratum corneum that provide improved adhesion among corneocytes, thus regulating skin barrier for long-term water retention, and protecting it from external environment. They improve skin elasticity and smoothness, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles and dry skin complexion. Ceramides, especially when used in certain ratios with cholesterol and fatty acids, do hydrate the skin and can help to repair the skin barrier.
- Cholesterol also plays a big role in keeping skin hydrated, plump, bouncy and well-functioning. It reinforces and strengthens the protective barrier, replenishes skin hydration, smooths the outer layer, and optimises the epidermis. It works to strengthen the outer structure of the skin and protect it from dehydration. Cholesterol also functions to repair skin that has been stripped of its natural lipids after applying an aggressive anti-aging treatment (chemical peel, depigmentation treatment, laser…)
- Fatty acids are critical for promoting cell turnover and regeneration, keeping skin soft, supple, and youthful. They stimulate epidermal key lipids synthesis, promoting the skin barrier repair, while providing excellent moisturising and healing properties.